This is our itinerary for Oman, a 16 day road trip around Oman with a toddler. We have included a map with the places we visited, our overnight stays and the specific route we took. We loved this route as it took in so much of what Oman has to offer, from the city life in Muscat to the mountain landscapes, beaches and the desert beyond. It goes without saying that this itinerary is only based on what we experienced…we did not get to see everything!
We decided to hire a 4×4 with camping equipment (and a roof-top tent) and travel independently. Although selecting camping spots was initially a new challenge, we would recommend this as it gives you the freedom to explore. We also didn’t book accommodation in advance, so we could be flexible as we discovered Oman.
Day 1 & 2: Discovering Muscat
Welcome to Oman! Take in everything around you and settle in. I always find that some time with nothing planned eases the transition to a new environment. Take stock, observe, relax.
These first days in Oman are great for discovering the city of Muscat. Enjoy visiting the Muttrah Souk to get lost and find the best deal on Frankincense, the Muttrah Corniche for a walk along the water. See the grandeur of Al Alam Palace and of the new National Museum of Oman. And grab a freshly prepared juice – watermelon and pineapple were our favourites.
Good to know: All hotels have Omani coffee, dates and water in the entrance hall – sharing some of that traditional Omani hospitality.
Day 3: Snorkelling in Daymaniyat Islands
While in Muscat one of the must do’s is to head into the Sea of Oman to snorkel on the Daymaniyat Islands. You will obviously need to book this in advance, we opted for a half day trip with a snack/drinks provided. In terms of our toddler, we just took it in turns to go into the water and our 3yo also jumped in for a quick look!
The Al Mouj Marina is worth a visit in itself. It is a lovely space with cafe’s and restaurants…and a Baskin Robbins – ice cream was very appreciated by our toddler after a few hours on the water. There is also a supermarket there
Day 4: Preparing for the Road Trip
We had rented a 4×4 with a roof top tent and camping equipment, but we needed a little time to get everything together for our road trip and camping nights. One key book to buy if you plan to go off road is the “Explorer: Oman Off Road” which has 38 routes, some of which you can link together to make your own routes as you go. We also sorted out getting our UK phone unlocked so we could make use of a local SIM and use the data to access Google Maps, which was most accurate for navigating Oman’s roads and also invaluable for using the satellite images to find a good camping spot.
Having prepared the car, we set off to find a camp a little early…the 1st night always takes a little longer than the rest! We arrived at ‘Camping Spot 1‘ and were quickly confronted by a small scorpion. A good piece of advice to teach our 3yo was to kick the stones before picking them up…to check for creepy crawlies.
Good to know: The main supermarkets are called ‘LuLu Hypermarkets’.
Day 5: Forts & Wadi Bani Awf 4×4 Drive
Oman has a number of Forts and strongholds that are worth exploring. We went to Nakhal Fort and Rustaq Fort but sadly on arrival we found them both to be ‘under construction’ – a longer term affair with no shared completion date – check before you visit! We were still able to see them both from the outside though.
After lunch, time to tackle one of the top 4×4 routes in Oman: Wadi Bani Awf (Oman Off Road Book: Route 17). This route cuts to the base of the massive north face of the Jabal Shams. It’s an amazing trip through Wadi’s, Canyons and small settlements including Balad Sayt. After an awesome climb to the windy top of Sharaf Al Alamayn, it’ll be time to find somewhere to stop for the night – we stopped at ‘Camping Spot 2‘.
Day 6: Misfat Al Abriyyin & Bahla Fort
Experience a traditional Omani mountain village – Misfat Al Abriyyin is a very picturesque village of old houses and terraced farms and date palms – all hanging off a rocky mountainside. Lose yourself in the narrow paths of the village and you may stumble upon a ‘House Museum & Gallery‘ that we found very informative. You can spend hours getting lost in this village – and it is well worth the time spent. End with Omani coffee in the hospitable terraced cafe near the visitor parking. Make your way there using Oman Off Road Book: Route 10.
After lunch at ‘Reem Al-Yemen Restaurant‘, a local place with great Chicken Biryani and Yemeni bread, head for Bahla to visit the Fort. Bahla Fort is perfect for running around and exploring – lots of rooms to get lost in! Then head to a nearby Wadi to camp, see ‘Camping Spot 3‘.
Day 7: Jabal Shams 4×4 Drive & Nizwa
Following part of Oman Off Road Book: Route 5, head for Jabal Shams – the highest point in Oman (over 3,000m) offering some impressive views of the ‘Grand Canyon’ of Oman. The first stop en route initially looks just like a hillside above some plantations, but look closely and blended into the scenery are the old stone houses of the village of Ghul. The drive up to the Grand Canyon viewpoint is pleasant and easy and the view on arrival is impressive – you feel as though you are on top of the world as the canyon plunges down below you.
After lunch, drive to Nizwa, a cultural and historical city with much to offer. In the evening, take a look at the relaxing Nizwa Souq (we encountered absolutely no heckling!), and eat dinner in a local fish restaurant.
Day 8: Nizwa & Desert drive to Al Khaluf
Nizwa is a lovely city – wander around the souq again in daylight and visit the very impressive Nizwa Fort. This is the most renovated of the fort’s we saw and also a ‘living’ museum, which gives a better understanding of how it was used. Also great for our 3yo to experience the sights, sounds and run around in.
After lunch, head South towards the Sugar Dunes in Al Khaluf. For speed, take Route 31 and then cross the desert towards Muhut – it was interesting how quickly after Nizwa the desert and desolation take over. It is a long drive and you may not make it all the way to the dunes, we arrived at ‘Camping Spot 4‘ just before dark.
Good to know: With hindsight, we think Nizwa is worth exploring for 2 days.
Day 9: Sugar Dunes of Al Khaluf
Set off on Oman Off Road Book: Route 36 from Bintawt direction and you soon reach the Sugar Dunes – a natural phenomenon and impressive ivory desert stretching as far as the eye can see from the sea. This was a great place to play in water and dunes alike. Our camping shovel became our 3yo’s favourite toy here!
Despite initially planning longer here, we decided to move on, making more time to discover the ‘must-see’ parts in the north east (as we mentioned earlier, we like to be flexible as we travel for this reason!). After travelling the coastal road, stay in the extremely family friendly Alashkhara Beach Resort. Our 3yo was happy to play with lots of other children in the ample playground.
Day 10: Wadi Beni Khalid & Wahiba Sands Desert Camp
Set off on Oman Off Road Book: Route 32, the route itself is all paved and Wadi Bani Khalid is a very popular destination for locals and tourists alike. A lovely place to explore and see people enjoying the beautiful wadi in their own little groups – some with very large picnics! The wadi’s are great for splashing around in the water and exploring.
Spend a night in the desert – we stayed in the fantastic Al Sarmadi Desert Camp in the Wahiba Sands where you can drive out in the desert with your own 4×4 and a guide from the local town. You receive the renowned Omani hospitality from the first moment you arrive and children are welcome to enjoy every part of the experience including playing on the dunes, riding camels and making traditional bread on the hot coals of the fire.
Day 11: Desert Camp & Sur
Enjoy a hearty breakfast and play in the dunes before heading out of the desert and towards Sur. Explore the Dhow Factory, Marine Museum and as well as seeing the turtles at Ras Al Hadd a short drive away.
(Our trip to Sur was a little different, we walked along the beach at Sur but due to the Sultan’s death everything else was closed.)
Day 12: 4×4 Dramatic Drive & Jaylah Beehive Tombs
Dramatic driving and varying road conditions make this drive very exciting. Starting early on Oman Off-Road Book: Route 30 you will see lots of different landscapes, steep drops, dramatic canyons, mountain villages and meet villagers. It is the most diverse of all the drives we did.
Camping at the Bronze Age Jaylah Beehive Tombs in a previously used camping spot at about 1700m in ‘Camping Spot 5‘ is amazing. Here we experienced the best sunset, a full moon and the most amazing sunrise we had seen on the trip so far.
Day 13: 4×4 Steep Hairpin Drive & Wadi Tiwi
Use Oman Off-Road: Route 28 to make your way down. The route via the Majlis Al Jinn Caves was closed, so we went via the route towards Tiwi, passing the cliffside village of Qurun. The road then starts to plummet down with amazing coastal views. The latter part of the route is full of very steep switchbacks – not for the fainthearted!
After brunch and a play in the sea on the beach near Fins, head towards Wadi Tiwi. Oman Off-Road: Route 29 is a very steep, winding and narrow route which uncovered an oasis of palm trees, old buildings and wadis. The most rugged and wild of the Wadi’s we visited. Camp on the beach near Fins in ‘Camping Spot 6‘.
Day 14: Wadi Ash Shab & 4×4 Drive to As Sifah
As a top tourist site, we advise to start this hike at 9am to avoid crowds. A boat takes you over to the start of the hike up Wadi Ash Shab. The hike takes around an hour with a 3yo and you arrive at an idyllic wadi, great for paddling and throwing small stones! For those who want more adventure, there is a further swim and walk combination which will bring you to a hidden waterfall.
Taking in one of the last 4×4 routes, make your way to Oman Off-Road Route 24, to beach camp near Al Sifah at ‘Camping Spot 7‘.
Good to know: The Wadi Ash Shab hike is quite long for a 3yo with sheer drops in places on the narrow path. We would recommend a hiking rucksack.
Day 15 & 16: Drive to Muscat Beach Resorts & Relax!
Finishing the end of Oman Off-Road: Route 24 head back to Muscat. It’s always good to have a few spare days at the end to take stock, rest and relax…and have some spare days after a 4×4 trip, just in case! (We were stuck in flash floods on our way back to Muscat!)
Head to the amazing Crowne Plaza Qurum, Muscat – highly recommended for a treat to end the holiday and a private beach full of the most amazing shells. Relax in a hotel with afternoon tea, we chose Al Bustan Palace Ritz Carlton. With it’s decadent style, inside and out as well as a mouth watering afternoon tea, it is a fitting end to an amazing holiday in Oman.
